Where to stay and how to get around without a car

Deciding whether to rent a car for your holiday in Sicily is a big consideration when planning your trip. Renting a car for a week or two will naturally bump up the cost of your holiday and for many, the thought of letting someone else take the strain – whether on a bus, train or taxi – can be tempting.

We’re often asked how easy it is to get round Sicily with public transport and if a car is really necessary, whether not having a car will mean missing out on some of the island’s top sights or being unable to easily get to the beach – all perfectly natural concerns. The truth is that it depends so much on what you want to do in Sicily so we advise our guests to think carefully about how they want to spend the day and if there are any must-see sights on their list.

Which is better, bus or train?

If you do decide to go car-free, the more you know about the transport system before you go, the better. There are plenty of Intercity buses, for example from Syracuse to Noto, but while there are frequent buses, they are run by a series of operators, which can make it seem complicated. Of course, once you arrive at one of the main cities, such as Syracuse, Catania or Palermo, you’ll be walking everywhere.

For those who prefer to travel by train, bear in mind that trains are fine if you’re skirting the coast, for example from Catania to Syracuse, but not so great when it comes to crossing the island. However, some places are better accessed by bus. For example, in Taormina, the train station is at the bottom of town by the beach, but if you want to explore the town, getting a bus is far better as the bus station is closer to town.

But where you stay is also important, not only in terms of the island’s geography, but also in relation to local bus and train connections. These are some of our top tips on where to stay in Sicily for a relaxed car free holiday.

Car free holidays on Sicily’s north coast

Finale di Pollina

The small coastal town of Finale di Pollina in the north is one of our top choices for a holiday in Sicily without a car. The town has recently opened a train station which offers great access via a small electric train to a series of locations along Sicily’s north coast. The train line runs along the coast from central Palermo all the way to Messina, making it easy to reach Finale di Pollina if you’re flying into Palermo airport and prefer not to hire a car. And during your stay, with trains running regularly throughout the day, you can easily explore locally. In fact, a trip to Palermo to visit its iconic markets or take a street food tour is generally more relaxing by train than by car. From Palermo, it’s easy to hop on a bus to the hilltop town and spectacular cathedral of Monreale. Meanwhile, close to the other end of the line, Milazzo is the starting point for a day trip to the stunning Aeolian Islands.

Other towns along the route include the popular seaside resort of Cefalù where you can while away a couple of hours on the lovely sandy beach or explore its charming historic centre. Or, when the sun dips, take the train to Cefalù for an evening stroll followed by dinner, and save yourself the hassle of trying to find a parking spot. Other towns worth visiting on the same train line include Capo d’Orlando, Patti and Santo Stefano di Camastra, best known for its colourful ceramics.

Choose from a selection of villas in Finale di Pollina including Aqua Turchina, Casa Turchina, Casa dei Nomadi and Villa Carlotta. All the villas are situated right on the beach and just a 5-minute walk from the train station.

Aqua Turchina in Finale di Pollina (Cefalù)
Aqua Turchina in Finale di Pollina (Cefalù)

Acquedolci

Acquedolci is a little further to the east, a small seaside town with a beach, a smattering of eateries, shops and, naturally, a gelateria! Casa Franchina is a short walk from the town centre and the beach and, with a pool, table tennis and toddler play area, is a good choice for families looking for a leisurely week of pool and beach fun.

Casa Franchina
Casa Franchina in Acquedolci (north Sicily)

City-based stays in east Sicily

Syracuse

The ancient Greek city of Syracuse ticks plenty of boxes for a car free holiday in Sicily. Firstly, the city is easily accessible by bus directly from Catania airport (around 1 hour), and by train from central Catania. The best place to stay in Syracuse is on the island of Ortigia, the city’s historic centre, and everything there is in walking distance. The city’s ancient Greek amphitheatre is in Syracuse rather than on Ortigia, but the two are connected by a small bridge.

Stella in Ortigia, Syracuse
Stella in Ortigia, Syracuse

However, a stay in Syracuse isn’t all about sightseeing. You’ll find a couple of attractive sunbathing platforms on Ortigia island, one just a short walk from Casa a Ortigia, and the seaside resort of Fontane Bianche is a short train journey from central Syracuse.

Casa a Ortigia seen from the sea
Casa a Ortigia seen from the sea

Noto

To the west of Syracuse, Noto is one of Sicily’s most stunning towns, home to an extraordinary collection of mesmerising baroque architecture. Enjoy the experience of staying in the heart of the UNESCO designated town at a super luxurious apartment for 10 with a rooftop terrace and fabulous spa. If you’re tempted to explore further afield, take the train to Syracuse or Modica, or, for beach time, choose from a great selection of beaches nearby at Lido di Noto or on the south coast around Pozzallo.

Aerial view of Noto
Aerial view of Noto